by Hairspring
Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.
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12/29/2023
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April 14, 2025
<p>It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Journe goes Geländewagen. </p><p><br></p><p>Links Mentioned:</p><p><br></p><p>NSO Bye-Bye:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-program">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-program</a></p><p><br></p><p>Tank à Guichets:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-tank-a-guichet-2025">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-tank-a-guichet-2025</a></p><p><br></p><p>Alternates:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jumping-hours-43040">https://www.acollectedman.com/products/vacheron-constantin-jumping-hours-43040</a></p><p><br></p><p>Alan Keating De Bethune (only capture I could find was on Reddit):</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/1d4to4p/identify_watch_worn_here_by_alan_keating_from/">https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/1d4to4p/identify_watch_worn_here_by_alan_keating_from/</a></p><p><br></p><p>Land Dweller:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller</a></p><p><br></p><p>1530:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1530-rolex-oyster-perpetual-date-4</a></p><p><br></p><p>Alternates:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-14790st-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-2">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-14790st-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-2</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/beyer-signed-3212-iwc-yacht-club-ii-jumbo-automatic">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/beyer-signed-3212-iwc-yacht-club-ii-jumbo-automatic</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1830-iwc-golf-club-sl</a></p><p><br></p><p>1908 Settimo Bracelet:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-in-yellow-gold-on-bracelet">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-in-yellow-gold-on-bracelet</a></p><p><br></p><p>Ceramic Dials:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-left-hand-in-white-gold-with-green-dial">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-left-hand-in-white-gold-with-green-dial</a></p><p><br></p><p>Tiger Iron:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-rolex-gmt-master-ii-126715chnr-tiger-iron-watch/">https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-on-rolex-gmt-master-ii-126715chnr-tiger-iron-watch/</a></p><p><br></p><p>Reverso:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-updates-the-reverso-tribute-duoface-and-monoface-small-seconds">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-updates-the-reverso-tribute-duoface-and-monoface-small-seconds</a></p><p><br></p><p>Great Wave:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.woohootime.com/#/watches/526">https://www.woohootime.com/#/watches/526</a></p><p><br></p><p>6196P:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-6196p-the-best-calatrava-in-a-generation</a></p><p><br></p><p>Alternates:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2526-patek-philippe-calatrava-white-gold</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.windvintage.com/patek-philippe-reference-2509-unpolished-w/-extract">https://www.windvintage.com/patek-philippe-reference-2509-unpolished-w/-extract</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-6159g">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-6159g</a></p><p><br></p><p>Odysseus:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-in-so-much-honeygold</a></p><p><br></p><p>Alternates:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3800-1j-yellow-gold-patek-philippe-nautilus">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3800-1j-yellow-gold-patek-philippe-nautilus</a></p><p><br></p><p>QP Repeater:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisons">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-minute-repeater-perpetual-live-pictures-thoughts-and-comparisons</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold">https://hairspring.com/products/330-039-saxonia-annual-calendar-u-s-boutique-white-gold</a></p><p><br></p><p>G-Wagen Journe:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtif">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-fp-journe-chronometre-furtif</a></p><p><br></p><p>Only Wrist:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/products/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold">https://hairspring.com/products/9240-ingenieur-perpetual-calendar-jumbo-yellow-gold</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendar">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/3057-breguet-classique-perpetual-calendar</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.gphg.org/en/watches/big-pilots-watch-perpetual-calendar-top-gun-edition-mojave-desert">https://www.gphg.org/en/watches/big-pilots-watch-perpetual-calendar-top-gun-edition-mojave-desert</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-quattro-2025">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-chopard-luc-quattro-2025</a><br></p>
April 3, 2025
<p>Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? </p><p><br></p><p>Links Mentioned:</p><p><br></p><p>LUC XPS:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial</a></p><p><br></p><p>Breguet Guide by Tahoma:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.tahomawatches.com/read/collectors-guide-to-early-breguet">https://www.tahomawatches.com/read/collectors-guide-to-early-breguet</a></p><p><br></p><p>Wellendorff Breguet:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/dubai-watches-db1901/lot.110.html">https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2019/dubai-watches-db1901/lot.110.html</a></p><p><br></p><p>Profane Watches:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.rescapement.com/blog/three-times-using-the-f-word-made-for-a-great-fing-watch">https://www.rescapement.com/blog/three-times-using-the-f-word-made-for-a-great-fing-watch</a></p><p><br></p><p>F&F Family (I couldn’t find Max’s Rolex):</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuc7wfO16Q">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuc7wfO16Q</a></p><p><br></p><p>25447 Carrera:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2547s-heuer-carrera-12-dato">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/2547s-heuer-carrera-12-dato</a></p><p><br></p><p>Oris pointer:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/oris-brings-back-the-bronze-for-its-latest-pointer-date-limited-edition">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/oris-brings-back-the-bronze-for-its-latest-pointer-date-limited-edition</a></p><p><br></p><p>5726 (Max’s Fav):</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar</a></p><p><br></p><p>3712:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/5726a-patek-philippe-annual-calendar</a></p><p><br></p><p>Dufour Backlash:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CuHdd-XrBAK/?img_index=1">https://www.instagram.com/p/CuHdd-XrBAK/</a></p><p><br></p><p>345.056:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar</a></p><p><br></p><p>310.225:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/310-225-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual-wellendorff-bracelet">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/310-225-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual-wellendorff-bracelet</a></p><p><br></p><p>Only Wrist:</p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-moon-phases-square-282/167335">https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/audemars-piguet-yellow-gold-perpetual-calendar-moon-phases-square-282/167335</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/34">https://www.phillips.com/detail/patek-philippe/CH080117/34</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/walser-wald-dial-591-patek-philippe-chronograph-pink-gold">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/walser-wald-dial-591-patek-philippe-chronograph-pink-gold</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1579-spider-lug-patek-philippe-chronograph">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/1579-spider-lug-patek-philippe-chronograph</a></p><p><br></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytona">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/tropical-dial-6265-rolex-daytona</a><br></p>
March 27, 2025
<p>There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mono-brand collectors, how would we each go about it?</p><p><br /></p><p>Links Mentioned:</p><p><br /></p><p>JPH Obituary: </p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/obituary-jean-pierre-hagmann.html" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://watchesbysjx.com/2025/03/obituary-jean-pierre-hagmann.html</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Lange Triple Split:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://monochrome-watches.com/a-lange-sohne-triple-split-in-pink-gold-and-blue-review-specs-price/" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://monochrome-watches.com/a-lange-sohne-triple-split-in-pink-gold-and-blue-review-specs-price/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Steel Spring Bars in Precious Cases:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-s%C3%B6hne/steel-spring-bars-eroding-away-the-lug-holes-/10.1546036.15123976/" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.watchprosite.com/a.-lange-and-söhne/steel-spring-bars-eroding-away-the-lug-holes-/10.1546036.15123976/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Types of Guilloché:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/guilloche-deception-atelier-wen-revolution" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/guilloche-deception-atelier-wen-revolution</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Gianni Agnelli:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://italianwatchspotter.com/gianni-agnellis-watch-collection-over-the-cuff/?lang=en" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://italianwatchspotter.com/gianni-agnellis-watch-collection-over-the-cuff/?lang=en</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Polerouter Window:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/204612-1-universal-geneve-polerouter-date" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/204612-1-universal-geneve-polerouter-date</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Home Plate:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-7032-tudor-monte-carlo-home-plate" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/black-dial-7032-tudor-monte-carlo-home-plate</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Lange 1 Perpetual:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-345-056-a-lange-sohne-lange-1-perpetual-calendar</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Type XX:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-breguet-type-xx-type-20</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Going Monobrand:</p><p><br /></p><p>Max:</p><p><br /></p><p>V72:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guide?srsltid=AfmBOoo3M8ejN3_xJ5VnooDwjAsfMTWaC3ffNF59ctUyngJR5C5QbLPo" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/valjoux-lecoultre-us-chronograph-guide</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Geophysic:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e168-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/e168-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic</a></p><p><br /></p><p>DSA History:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.watchprosite.com/jaeger-lecoultre/jaeger-lecoultre-tribute-to-deep-sea-alarm-full-hands-on-review-sihh-2011-/2.681148.4348178/" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.watchprosite.com/jaeger-lecoultre/jaeger-lecoultre-tribute-to-deep-sea-alarm-full-hands-on-review-sihh-2011-/2.681148.4348178/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Erik:</p><p><br /></p><p>Lange Picks:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.alange-soehne.com/us-en/timepieces/saxonia/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph</a></p><p><br /></p><p>(Correction: chronograph, not split, obvs)</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://langepedia.com/a-lange-sohne-1815/lange-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Omega:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steel" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://hairspring.com/products/2915-2-speedmaster-steel</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-ploprof-in-depth" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-ploprof-in-depth</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080217/182" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.phillips.com/detail/OMEGA/CH080217/182</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Only Wrist:</p><p><br /></p><p>4072:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/HK080422/8025" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/HK080422/8025</a></p><p><br /></p><p>4178:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080223/184" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/CH080223/184</a></p><p><br /></p><p>CdV:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080222/100" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.phillips.com/detail/vacheron-constantin/NY080222/100</a></p><p><br /></p><p>90s QP Skeletons:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://hairspring.com/products/43032-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum</a></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum" rel="ugc noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">https://hairspring.com/products/25668pt-perpetual-calendar-skeleton-platinum</a><br /></p>
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