by Alpinist Magazine
Since 2002 Alpinist has striven to push creative boundaries with everything we do, from award-winning climbing journalism and creative writing to photography and art. Now, with the Alpinist podcast, we aim to extend our conversations with climbers and community members into interviews and oral histories that will entertain and educate our listeners with everything from dramatic and humorous adventure tales to in-depth discussions of the most significant issues in the climbing world today. More at alpinist.com/podcast
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8/16/2017
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April 15, 2025
<p dir="ltr">Kai Lightner is no stranger to the spotlight—or to this magazine. He’s been climbing since he was six, when he joined the climbing team at a gym in North Carolina. Four years later Lightner won his first national title, and the wins just kept coming. </p> <p dir="ltr">In 2016, while still in high school, Lightner wrote an essay for Alpinist 55 about learning how to trad climb from Doug Robinson. A few years later, as a sophomore in college, he appeared on this podcast, in conversation with Paula LaRochelle. He had recently taken a step back from climbing and would soon found the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change. </p> <p dir="ltr">A lot has happened in Lightner’s life since that last conversation. He spoke up about his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber, opening up a bigger conversation. Through Climbing for Change, he’s been at the forefront of initiatives aimed at making climbing more diverse and inclusive. He traveled to Jamaica and helped build the country’s first climbing wall. Lightner even tried trad climbing again, though he says it’s still not really his thing. </p> <p dir="ltr">And, last year, Lightner climbed his first 5.15. </p> <p dir="ltr">In this episode, Lighter and I catch up about the last six years, discuss the importance of community and connection, and consider the value of forgiveness. </p> <p>This episode is brought to you with support from the <a href="https://americanalpineclub.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">American Alpine Club</a>.</p> <p>Host: Abbey Collins</p> <p>Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn</p> <p>Guest: <a href="https://www.kai-lightner.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Kai Lightner</a></p> <p>Nonprofit: <a href="https://www.climbing4change.org/" target= "_blank" rel="noopener">Climbing for Change</a></p> <p><a href= "https://shop.holpublications.com/collections/alpinist-subscriptions" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine</a> </p>
April 5, 2025
<p dir="ltr">Last year, Babsi Zangerl did something no one has ever done before—she flashed a route on El Capitan. Thousands of feet of hard climbing with no falls. Her partner, Jacopo Larcher, came really close, taking just one fall during their ascent of Freerider. </p> <p dir="ltr">Zangerl has been a climber for over two decades, since she was a teenager at a climbing gym in Austria. But what, and how, she climbs has evolved over that time—she spent her early years as a professional boulderer. </p> <p dir="ltr">Zangerl first visited Yosemite fifteen years ago with her friend Hansjörg Auer. She was getting more serious about ropes after sustaining a serious back injury while bouldering. Since that first trip in 2010, Zangerl has returned with Larcher to free climb many of the valley’s classic routes, including Zodiac, Magic Mushroom and the Nose.</p> <p dir="ltr">In 2018 the pair climbed the North Face of the Eiger. In 2022 they freed Eternal Flame on Pakistan’s Nameless Tower, a trip Larcher wrote about in Alpinist 82. And their list of accomplishments just keeps growing. </p> <p dir="ltr">In this episode, Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more. </p> <p>This episode is brought to you with support from the <a href= "https://americanalpineclub.org/" target="_blank" rel= "noopener">American Alpine Club</a>.</p> <p>Host: Abbey Collins</p> <p>Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn</p> <p>Photos of Basi Zangerl by Jacopo Larcher and Jonathan Faeth</p> <p><a href= "https://shop.holpublications.com/collections/alpinist-subscriptions" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine</a> </p>
January 16, 2025
Rick Accomazzo shares his personal story of climbing with Tobin Sorenson, a legendary alpinist and best all-around climber in the world at the time, whose untimely death in 1980 left a lasting impact on the climbing community.
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