by Jinni Xia
<p>A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.</p><p>Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!</p><p>For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at <a href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a>.</p>
Language
🇺🇲
Publishing Since
7/2/2023
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April 7, 2025
<p>Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What’s crazy is that he didn’t start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we’ll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous climbers that he doesn’t know because he can’t “watch” climbing content.</p><p></p><p><strong>Guest links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/theblindexplorer/">Chaz’s Instagram</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Reference links</strong>:</p><p></p><p>Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://madrock.com/">https://madrock.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Learn more about the podcast at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com">www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com</a></p><p>Follow on Instagram at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p>Join the FREE community in Discord! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a></p><p>Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Timestamps of discussion topics</strong></p><p>0:00 - Intro</p><p>1:58 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!</p><p>2;27 - Intro/healing from surgery</p><p>7:49 - Chaz's impairment and how he started climbing</p><p>13:16 - Losing sight later in life</p><p>26:16 - Lead belaying blind</p><p>36:21 - Visually impaired climbing without a caller</p><p>38:07 - First time competition climbing...getting dumped...bro code broken?!</p><p>43:25 - Climbing + calling with Alannah Yip</p><p>46:37 - Accidental run-ins with the most famous comp climbers</p><p>52:38 - Lack of accessibility with climbing content</p><p>57:17 - Feeling unsafe on the wall</p><p>1:03:24 - Hiding his disability</p><p>1:07:37 - 2028 Paralympics</p><p>1:14:54 - Climbing blindfolded</p><p>1:18:02 - Me complaining about outdoor climbing + why he loves outdoor climbing</p><p>1:23:42 - Playing blind hockey</p><p>1:25:59 - More of me complaining about outdoor climbing + what is real climbing</p><p>1:28:57 - Blind ice climbing</p><p>1:31:12 - Being an inspiration for his son</p><p>1:33:47 - Blind hockey show and tell</p><p>1:41:46 - IG Q: How long does it take to get in sync with your caller?</p><p>1:42:54 - IG Q: Does speed climbing work well for blind people?</p><p>1:49:26 - DISCORD Q: Would paraclimbers want to compete in bouldering?</p><p>1:55:25 - Words of wisdom + where to find Chaz</p>
March 24, 2025
<p>Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.</p><p></p><p><strong>Guest links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/tijlsmitz/">Tijl’s Instagram</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Reference links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/general-assembly/25-lar/elections/index">Info on elections and candidates</a></p><p></p><p>Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://madrock.com/">https://madrock.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Learn more about the podcast at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com">www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com</a></p><p>Follow on Instagram at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p>Join the FREE community in Discord! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a></p><p>Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Timestamps of discussion topics</strong></p><p>0:00 - Intro</p><p>1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!</p><p>2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history</p><p>5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team</p><p>10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works </p><p>15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics</p><p>18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC</p><p>24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education</p><p>33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups</p><p>38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups</p><p>41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation</p><p>48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games</p><p>50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?</p><p>56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?</p><p>1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl</p>
March 10, 2025
<p>Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it’s like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.</p><p></p><p><strong>Guest links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/gregorvezonik/">Gregor’s Instagram</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Reference links</strong>:</p><p><a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://veziholds.com/">Gregor’s hold brand</a></p><p></p><p>Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://madrock.com/">https://madrock.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Learn more about the podcast at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com">www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com</a></p><p>Follow on Instagram at <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p>Join the FREE community in Discord! <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp">https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp</a></p><p>Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow" href="http://patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast">www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast</a></p><p></p><p><strong>Timestamps of discussion topics</strong></p><p>0:00 - Intro</p><p>1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!</p><p>2:08 - Spray wall noob questions</p><p>5:34 - Feeling competitive against his brother</p><p>10:45 - Why Slovenia is so dominant at climbing</p><p>17:13 - Slovenian team training and funding</p><p>19:36 - Slovenian young guns to watch out for</p><p>21:21 - Career highlights and traveling</p><p>25:35 - Being a picky eater on the road</p><p>27:57 - Competing with migraines</p><p>30:55 - Making the decision to retire</p><p>37:52 - How to be okay with "getting weaker"</p><p>42:14 - Setting vs competing</p><p>45:43 - IFSC setting aspirations</p><p>47:55 - What is hold shaping</p><p>52:52 - Do we really need more holds?</p><p>55:40 - IG Q: what's your creative process for designing a new hold?</p><p>1:02:23 - Hot takes on hold shaping and no tex</p><p>1:06:30 - Discord Q: How do you see World Cup routesetting changing in the next 10 years?</p><p>1:10:18 - DISCORD Q: Does hold shaping inspire your setting more or vice versa?</p><p>1:11:41 - DISCORD Q: What's it like climbing with Janja?</p><p>1:19:09 - Matt Groom trolling</p><p>1:20:44 - Final thoughts and where to find Gregor</p>
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