by Jared Vagy
The Climbing Doctor Podcast dives deep into how to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injuries. Jared Vagy interviews medical providers, coaches, climbers, and trainers to learn the best strategies to climb injury-free. Each episode covers a wide variety of topics including injury diagnosis, mobility training, strength exercises, and movement technique.
Language
🇺🇲
Publishing Since
1/4/2023
Email Addresses
1 available
Phone Numbers
0 available
March 1, 2025
<p>In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries.</p> <p>Nicholas Hedges's Bio</p> <ul> <li>Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he’s not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running.</li> </ul> <p>Chapters</p> <ul> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">00:00</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Introduction and Background</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">01:30</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">06:19</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> The Consequences of Ankle Sprains</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">08:02</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">11:33</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Testing Ankle Mobility and Function</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">14:26</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">21:09</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">22:39</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">22:46</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">27:05</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">35:30</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation</span></li> <li class="MuiBox-root css-4cps79 e1de0imv0"><span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-helper css-v8n4dg e1de0imv0">44:05</span> <span class= "MuiTypography-root MuiTypography-bodyMedium css-1lit4es e1de0imv0"> Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing</span></li> </ul> <p class="p2">Links and Resources for This Episode:</p> <ul> <li class="p1">📝 <a title= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/s3-e2-ankle-sprain-rehab-for-rock-climbers-nicholas-hedges" href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/s3-e2-ankle-sprain-rehab-for-rock-climbers-nicholas-hedges">Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast</a></li> <li class="p1">🎥 <a href="https://youtu.be/aYu1rg9Jk_U">Video YouTube Podcast Episode</a></li> </ul> <p class="p1">Social Media and Webpage:</p> <ul> <li class="p1">🕸️<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/">Webpage</a> / 📸 <a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/">Instagram</a> /📍<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/">Pinterest</a> / 📝<a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/"> Blog Articles</a>: </li> </ul> <p class="p2">Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools</p> <ul> <li class="p1"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/">Climb Injury-Free Book</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/">Self-Help Injury Protocols</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/">Rehab Tools</a>: /<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/">Brand Partner Discounts</a> </li> </ul> <p class="p2">Injury Rehab Coures</p> <ul> <li class="p2"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/">Courses for Medical Providers </a>/ <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/">Courses for Coaches</a></li> </ul>
January 1, 2025
<p>In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process.</p> <p>Kimmy Wiley's Bio</p> <ul> <li>Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and owner of Peak Pursuit Performance & Rehab- an online physical therapy and strength and conditioning service for outdoor athletes. While Kimmy has had experience in most physical therapy settings, she has found a passion for sports therapy- specifically for adventure sport athletics. During the winter months Kimmy travels with the U.S. Snowboard Halfpipe Team, helping them stay happy and healthy as they travel the world for training camps and competitions. When at home in Salt Lake, Kimmy can be found in the Wasatch Mountains climbing, snowboarding, or hiking with her dog, Nomad.</li> </ul> <p>Chapters</p> <ul> <li>00:00 Introduction and Background</li> <li>08:41 Rehabilitation Approach</li> <li>25:16 Returning to Climbing and Specific Movements</li> <li>32:32 Conclusion and Contact Information</li> </ul> <p class="p2">Links and Resources for This Episode:</p> <ul> <li class="p1">📝 <a title= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/tfcc-injury-a-common-source-of-wrist-pain-in-climbers/" href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/tfcc-injury-a-common-source-of-wrist-pain-in-climbers/">Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast</a></li> <li class="p1">🎥 <a href="https://youtu.be/lGA-8Asoz2w">Video YouTube Podcast Episode</a></li> </ul> <p class="p1">Social Media and Webpage:</p> <ul> <li class="p1">🕸️<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/">Webpage</a> / 📸 <a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/">Instagram</a> /📍<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/">Pinterest</a> / 📝<a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/"> Blog Articles</a>: </li> </ul> <p class="p2">Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools</p> <ul> <li class="p1"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/">Climb Injury-Free Book</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/">Self-Help Injury Protocols</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/">Rehab Tools</a>: /<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/">Brand Partner Discounts</a> </li> </ul> <p class="p2">Injury Rehab Coures</p> <ul> <li class="p2"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/">Courses for Medical Providers </a>/ <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/">Courses for Coaches</a></li> </ul>
November 1, 2024
<p>This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations.</p> <p> </p> <p>Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities. </p> <p>Chapters</p> <ul> <li>00:00 Introduction</li> <li>02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle</li> <li>04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases</li> <li>06:07 Hormones and their Roles</li> <li>08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase</li> <li>12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle</li> <li>19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase</li> <li>23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases</li> <li>25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners </li> <li>26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases</li> <li>28:35 Final Thoughts </li> </ul> <p class="p2">Links and Resources for This Episode:</p> <ul> <li class="p1">📝 <a title= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/training-with-your-cycle/" href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-as-therapy-for-mental-health/">Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast</a></li> <li class="p1">🎥 <a href="https://youtu.be/Bukxht2326g">Video YouTube Podcast Episode</a></li> </ul> <p class="p1">Social Media and Webpage:</p> <ul> <li class="p1">🕸️<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/">Webpage</a> / 📸 <a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/">Instagram</a> /📍<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/theclimbingdoctor/">Pinterest</a> / 📝<a href="https://theclimbingdoctor.com/grid/"> Blog Articles</a>: </li> </ul> <p class="p2">Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools</p> <ul> <li class="p1"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/">Climb Injury-Free Book</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rock-rehab-protocols/">Self-Help Injury Protocols</a> / <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/rehab-products/">Rehab Tools</a>: /<a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/brand-partner-discounts/">Brand Partner Discounts</a> </li> </ul> <p class="p2">Injury Rehab Coures</p> <ul> <li class="p2"><a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/courses/">Courses for Medical Providers </a>/ <a href= "https://theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-coach-courses/">Courses for Coaches</a></li> </ul>
Neely Quinn
Lattice Training
Ryan Devlin
Steven Dimmitt
Sam Prior & Aidan Roberts
Chris Kalous
Andrew Bisharat & Chris Kalous
Duct Tape Then Beer
Eric J. Hörst
Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing
Testpiece
Duct Tape Then Beer
Freakonomics Network & Zachary Crockett
Niall Grimes
Kyra Condie, Allison Vest
Pod Engine is not affiliated with, endorsed by, or officially connected with any of the podcasts displayed on this platform. We operate independently as a podcast discovery and analytics service.
All podcast artwork, thumbnails, and content displayed on this page are the property of their respective owners and are protected by applicable copyright laws. This includes, but is not limited to, podcast cover art, episode artwork, show descriptions, episode titles, transcripts, audio snippets, and any other content originating from the podcast creators or their licensors.
We display this content under fair use principles and/or implied license for the purpose of podcast discovery, information, and commentary. We make no claim of ownership over any podcast content, artwork, or related materials shown on this platform. All trademarks, service marks, and trade names are the property of their respective owners.
While we strive to ensure all content usage is properly authorized, if you are a rights holder and believe your content is being used inappropriately or without proper authorization, please contact us immediately at [email protected] for prompt review and appropriate action, which may include content removal or proper attribution.
By accessing and using this platform, you acknowledge and agree to respect all applicable copyright laws and intellectual property rights of content owners. Any unauthorized reproduction, distribution, or commercial use of the content displayed on this platform is strictly prohibited.